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Workingman's Arete
5.11d,
Trad, Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
FA: Rick Ziegler and Austin Archer
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Pine Creek Canyon
> Lamb Canyon Wall
Description
Pitch 1 (5.7): The approach pitch to Moment of Zen and Workingman's Arete. Start in a broken corner to a bolt that protects a mini slab. Continue up the corner, to steep section leading to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear: small to #3.
Pitch 2 (11d): From top anchor of A, scramble of to stance, clip first bolt and enter a series of technical, thin moves up the arête to mid way anchor. 10 bolts. 30 m
Pitch 3 (10d): Traverse left off mid way anchor (or continue climbing from pitch 2!) to stance at edge of arête. Gear placements up cracks and face moves on the arête lead to another stance. Clip a bolt, fun arête moves past another bolt lead to a horizontal crack weakness. Small, finger size gear protect thin moves to bolted crux, then traverse right to anchor at top of B. Gear: small to #3. Descent with 60 or 70 m rope.
Location
See topo
Protection
Pitch 1: Gear, small to #3, 1 bolt.
Pitch 2: Bolts
Pitch 3: Gear, small to #3, plus bolts
[Hide Photo] Brad Johnston-Cox on pitch 1 of Workingman's Arete
[Hide Photo] Brad working hard on Workingman's Arete, pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Brad Johnston-Cox on pitch 1 of Workingman's Arete
[Hide Photo] Rick Ziegler on the first ascent of Workingman's Arete (pitch 2).