Workingman's Arete
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Trad, Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Rick Ziegler and Austin Archer |
Page Views: | 1,916 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Rick Ziegler on Sep 27, 2011 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Pitch 1 (5.7): The approach pitch to Moment of Zen and Workingman's Arete. Start in a broken corner to a bolt that protects a mini slab. Continue up the corner, to steep section leading to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear: small to #3.
Pitch 2 (11d): From top anchor of A, scramble of to stance, clip first bolt and enter a series of technical, thin moves up the arête to mid way anchor. 10 bolts. 30 m
Pitch 3 (10d): Traverse left off mid way anchor (or continue climbing from pitch 2!) to stance at edge of arête. Gear placements up cracks and face moves on the arête lead to another stance. Clip a bolt, fun arête moves past another bolt lead to a horizontal crack weakness. Small, finger size gear protect thin moves to bolted crux, then traverse right to anchor at top of B. Gear: small to #3. Descent with 60 or 70 m rope.
Pitch 2 (11d): From top anchor of A, scramble of to stance, clip first bolt and enter a series of technical, thin moves up the arête to mid way anchor. 10 bolts. 30 m
Pitch 3 (10d): Traverse left off mid way anchor (or continue climbing from pitch 2!) to stance at edge of arête. Gear placements up cracks and face moves on the arête lead to another stance. Clip a bolt, fun arête moves past another bolt lead to a horizontal crack weakness. Small, finger size gear protect thin moves to bolted crux, then traverse right to anchor at top of B. Gear: small to #3. Descent with 60 or 70 m rope.
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