Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Austin Archer & Rick Ziegler
Page Views: 6,458 total · 74/month
Shared By: Rick Ziegler on Sep 27, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1 (5.7): The approach pitch to Moment of Zen and Workingman's Arete. Start in a broken corner to a bolt that protects a mini slab. Continue up the corner, to steep section leading to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear: small to #3. 25m
Pitch 2 (11a): Traverse up and right over broken ledge to base of crack. Varied jamming for ~20 feet lead to a right leaning diagonal weakness. Traverse up and right, passing a roof. Climb left leaning crack and face to a tips crux. 2 bolt anchor. Gear: small to #3 (small nuts for crux). 30m
Pitch 3 (11a): Traverse right from anchor. Clip bolt and climb a series of moves off a slanting rail, to a shallow rib. Clip chain draw and climb bulge (crux). Make moves up and left to corner of roof. Continue on easier terrain to 2 bolt anchor. 8 bolts. 30m. Descent: 3 – 30m raps.

Location

See topo

Protection

Pitch 1, small to #3 cam, 1 bolt
Pitch 2, small to #3 cam.
Pitch 3, bolts.
pitch 2..Splitter!! Mar 17, 2014
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
Dudes, this thing looks so good! Putting it on the short list for next time. Mar 25, 2014

 
Pine Creek Top 10 May 31, 2014
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
 
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
 
Pitch 2 is absolutely fantastic. Sustained, technical, and engaging from start to finish. About the gear through the crux...bring the absolute smallest stuff you can find. The gear is very small but solid. Jun 9, 2014
Awesome! Pretty desperate at the top of the crack, and p3 has it's tricky moments too.

The moves just past the chain draw are very height dependent. At 6'2" I was easily able to reach an important edge that my 5'6" partner could not.

For gear, single rack to 2" should be good, maybe extra small nuts. Jun 10, 2014
EJoe
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11-
EJoe   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11-
Agreed on this climb being somewhat height-dependent. I'm 5'9"and found the last move on p2 to be the limit of my reach. P3 had even more instances of being fully extended. Oct 1, 2018
KG
SLC, UT
  5.11b
KG   SLC, UT
  5.11b
I would agree with the ratings outlined by the new Pine Creek guidebook.

P1: 5.7 (gully)
P2: 11a (splitter!!)
P3: 11b (sporty/slabby)

Ideal rack:
10 QD's/Runners
Micro-medium stoppers (small offset dmm helpful in a couple spots)
C3: 000-0
Single: .1, .2, 1, 2, 3 (3# optional, nice but not necessary)
Doubles: .3-.75

P2 is so insanely good. P3 is good too! Nov 26, 2018