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Routes in Rat Rock

Banana Boogie V0 4
Butter V2 5+
Death By Dizzy V2 5+
High Traverse V1 5
Horn, The V0- 4-
Layback V1 5
Mother's Milk V2 5+
Polish Traverse, The V5 6C
Rat Hole V0- 4-
Rat Rock Dyno V5 6C
Small Wall Left V0 4
Testpiece V4 6B
Tweaky Shit V2 5+
Tweaky Shit (variation) V4 6B
Tweaky Shit Traverse V2-3 5+
Where You Fall, Direct V1 5
flake, The V0-1 4+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: 1980's
Page Views: 1,727 total, 23/month
Shared By: rogerbenton on Sep 27, 2011
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Description

About 5 feet left of the flake, find a small crimpy set of holds over head height. The right hand hold has been broken off and epoxied back on (like about 20 other holds here), the left is a crescent shaped situation that is equal parts sidepull and crimper. Once feet are on the rock shoot for the rail above, then crystals above that, and topout straight up.
Getting off the ground is the crux.

Harder variations include traversing into this from the flake directly to the right (or beyond);
or starting on the left hand gaston/right hand crimp below the start holds mentioned above with a toe out right near the ground, then moving up into the original start position (v3+?).

Location

East face of Rat Rock, Between the oak trees but closer to tree on climber's left.

Protection

spotter, pad optional,

Photos

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Dan Katz  
 
This problem is usually considered to go at V3. There's a harder variation (also V3), which sit-starts at the bulge hold right of the flake, and traverses in - While the original problem is basically a one-move wonder, this harder variation adds a ~V2 start, with an additional ~V3 move before getting into the crux of the original route. Jul 9, 2016