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Tweaked Unit

5.11b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 50 votes
FA: Wes Allen, Stephanie Meadows, JATD crew, 2006
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Courtesy Wall

Description

This route is a beautiful and technical face that is slightly overhanging to near vertical most of the way. Use amazing iron oxide rails most of the way to negotiate the send.

There are three bolted lines on this section of wall, Tweaked climbs the center one with a vertical gash/rail about half way up. Pull up through crimps and iron oxide to get to the first bolt. Move through some tricky pockets to get to the next set of rails. Move into the vertical gash (crux) and work out the technical sequence for a few more bolts. Enjoy iron oxides to the last few bolts, then make a few more technical moves to the anchors.

Location

From the approach trail turn left when met with the base of the wall. Walk left 30 yards past a dihedral until the trail meets the face again. This is the center line. Look for the gash about half way up.

Protection

9 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start to Tweaked Unit 5.11b.
[Hide Photo] Start to Tweaked Unit 5.11b.
Top of Tweaked Unit 5.11b.
[Hide Photo] Top of Tweaked Unit 5.11b.
Pano shot from below.
[Hide Photo] Pano shot from below.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tom Caldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Don't forget to turn around and enjoy the view. An endless view of both the north and south facing cliffs opposite one another. Sep 27, 2011
Eric Hirst
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Great warm down to give your shoulders a rest after the nearby Amarillo Sunset. Really nice movement with a well protected fingery crux.
Nov 17, 2011
Spencer Scott
Kansas City, MO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Do not skip this route. It's a classic and completely underrated. Apr 4, 2016
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] in between bolts 3 and 4 (I think) there's a two finger pocket. While leading it today, I noticed something moving inside that moved right before I went to use it. I peered inside to find a bat seeking shelter! I was able to progress without use of the finger pocket but I'm glad I didn't try, he had some decent teeth for such a little mammal! May 31, 2016
Michael Beasley
Boise, ID
 
[Hide Comment] Unbelievably good, I still day dream about those cold iron edges. As more of a vertical/techy climber I really enjoyed the contrast between this climb and the classic steeps commonly found in the red. Extremely unique holds, intricate and enjoyable climbing, plus no crowds makes this climb an unforgettable classic! Mar 19, 2018