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Routes in Aiguille de Fleur

Eastern Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
North Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original East Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Russian Ties T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Victory Garden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: J. Sambataro, J. Killgore (8/13/11)
Page Views: 1,319 total · 17/month
Shared By: Joe Sambataro on Sep 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The climb provided moderate climbing up a series of corners, cracks, and less than vertical ground for 3 pitches to reach the last 4th pitch that climbs the rightmost side of a series of steep and impressive roofs. The rock was generally solid with occasional crumbling or loose rock. The cracks were mostly dirt free but full of lichen.

Pitch 1: At the base of a left-facing corner on a buttress left of a large gully, make an awkward first move onto the right side of the face and continue up positive holds before traversing back left around a large flake to a hidden, shallow corner. Continue upwards on easy but marginally protected ground to a belay. 5.6, 55m.

Pitch 2: Follow a short crack and move leftward to a short chimney. Continue up the chimney (some loose rock) into a corner and climb to a ledge below a steep face just right of where the large tiered roofs begin. 5.8, 55m.

Pitch 3: A short pitch brings you to the base of the rightmost corner. From the belay, move left below a small roof and climb up and back right up fun jugs (marginal gear) to a ledge. 5.7, 20m.

Pitch 4: Climb the left-facing corner directly above. Jam and stem up the first small but wide corner roof and through a second small roof. From here, we traversed right on a horizontal crack and up to the top to avoid loose chockstones and summit blocks in the third roof. 5.9+, 25m.

Location

From the main east face, continue up the scree or snow field to the east side of a large gully. Gain a left-facing corner above the snow/scree.

Protection

We climbed ground up with a standard trad rack up to a #4. No bolts or fixed gear.

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