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Routes in Piedra River - East Side

25 Years A Virgin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Phil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eastern Pleasures S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skewed Reality S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Alex Scott
Page Views: 156 total, 2/month
Shared By: Pullhard on Sep 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great climb with two distinct, steep sections. The fun begins after the third bolt. Trend left and pull over the bulge (crux). Get a no hands rest and cruise up the slab. Follow the crack system up and keep veering left. The route remains steep, but the holds are big.

Location

Park in the obvious turn-a-round after deadman's curve. Follow the established trail down to the rim. The top of Eastern Pleasures is by the farthest left tree near the canyon rim.

Rappel from the anchors or walk down the gully to the left (near the dead tree) to access the start of the climb.

Protection

Quickdraws, 10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Use runners/long draws after the bulge to lessen rope drag. If you're top roping or lowering to clean the route, please do so off your own quickdraws. They are easy to retrieve from the top, which is by the parking area anyway.

Photos

s.price
PS,CO
  5.11b/c
s.price   PS,CO
  5.11b/c
Tricky at the bulge but the rest of the climb is very straightforward. Plenty of good rests for the crafty. 70 meter for sure or top out to belay second. Jun 4, 2012
Pullhard  
 
BE ALERT! I have only climbed this route with a 70 meter rope. I don't know if it is safe to lower a climber back to the ground with a 60. I will post when I know more. It would be possible to belay the second to the top, then walk from the rim to your vehicle. Sep 26, 2011