Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,673 total · 19/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Sep 26, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

35 Opinions

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Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
Slippery crack! but fun Feb 8, 2012
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
This is a super easy climb to set up a toprope on. If you want to get a bold lead in though, this climb certainly has the elements. I certainly believe it was 9+ when it was first done, but the polished crimps and slippery crack have upped the ante in my opinion.

GEAR BETA WARNING: A #5 BD Stopper is the first real piece you can get in at around 12 feet. There is a tiny slot just a few feet below where the finger crack properly starts. It is not obvious at all, so hopefully me pointing it out makes people feel a little more encouraged to give this one a go. No need to run it out all the way from the ground to the crack for gear. Jul 6, 2012
Jay Harrison
  5.10a PG13
Jay Harrison  
  5.10a PG13
This is another BW route besmirched by a no-pro start and a bad landing. Definitely 5.10 territory with its "popular polish"; and no gear until you've done the hardest moves. Still, it isn't over once you reach the crack: there's a lot of challenge stuffed into this short length. Dec 7, 2012
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
I didn't find the start to be the crux. I thought the hardest move was at 2/3's height working with a shallow jam. The climb was filthy from runoff after a recent rain. May 18, 2015