PRINT: Rock Climb Mr. Slate, Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Mr. Slate

5.10d, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
FA: Gaines/Peterson
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Center (Flin…

Description

Start up Human Fright and then cut right to the first bolt on the face. Continue up past 4 bolts. At this time you have the option of placing a few small to medium sized cams at an overlap before proceeding to the fifth bolt. 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Start up Human Fright and then cut right onto the bolted face. You need a 70M rope to do a single rope rap or do 2 raps to the ground via the Human Fright anchors.

Protection

7 bolts plus a hand sized piece for Human Fright and small to medium sized cams between bolts 4 and 5, all on extra long runners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the crux of Mr. Slate

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J Smith

5.10d

Enjoyable route with a short crux right at the 4th bolt. I counted 7 bolts total, 5 leading up to the overlap where you can get a small cam (0 metolius) and then two more to the top. The 10R section shown in the 2001 guide doesn't exist, you clip a bolt, climb up 5 ft. and place a piece and then climb up another 5 ft. or so and clip the next bolt. It is a bit runout on 5.6/7 climbing after the last bolt to the anchor - 2 bolt with metolius rap hangers. Back cleaning any gear in the Human Fright crack eliminates the need for extended draws. Aug 26, 2012

Tradiban

Indeed, there's one more bolt than indicated by Gaines/Vogel. At the 5th bolt there's a blank impasse where you grab a flake at the end of the first pitch of Human Fright. I stopped here and rapped from the HF anchors. Seemed very contrived and silly to step back out onto the face for two more bolts and 25ft of climbing. Felt right to end there.

Great and interesting climbing through the first five bolts. Mar 27, 2016

Alex Shainman

This route would most definitely deserve another star and be as good as Fred if you didn't have to traverse left to Human Fright at that current 5th bolt and the rock is kinda crunchy in a couple spots, but it is a good long pitch nonetheless.

The contrived sensation will dissipate as you make some exciting moves up and right before you clip the second to last bolt. I thought the upper climbing is well worth feeling silly about attempting. Other than a 2" piece before the first bolt, placing any gear out left between bolts 5 and 6 doesn't make any sense to me as you would swing back into the big flakes. As noted above, a small TCU will fit directly in line with the bolts but beware, that entire flake system is hollow. May 31, 2016

Tradiban

Got around to leading through the last two bolts today, after briefly grabbing the horn to left there's a nasty thin flake, move right to a secret undercling and a few good moves, at the last bolt move left on easy ground then back right to a bolted anchor. The last two bolts of climbing were ok but I would still finish on P1 HF anchors in the future. Aug 19, 2018