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Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

Boaty's Birthday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Family Picnic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flippin the bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fuck Rumney T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golf Ball Sized Urethra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineers Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schistorectomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Traction Splint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Hansen Derek Doucet 5/02
Page Views: 3,475 total · 41/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Sep 26, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

On par with any of the multi-pitch routes at the 82. Long, steep and thoughtful characterize this fun romp up a nice exposed buttress.

start on the left side of a 70/80 foot buttress/pillar of rock in the center of the Main Cliff. The route is unmistakeable, as bolts mark the way. Pitch one is tricky little number with some balance and faith required at the crux. Finish on a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

The 2nd pitch climbs steep rock up past an insecure block (step around it gingerly!!) to a series of delicate moves to a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

A single rap with 2 60 meter ropes with get you back to the ground.

Location

Center of the Main Cliff Wall on the left side of an obvious buttress of rock.

Protection

10 QDs, plus some small nuts if you want to avoid the runouts.

Photos

Derek Doucet
  5.7
Derek Doucet  
  5.7
Hi Chris-

It's awesome you've been getting up to Bone! I haven't been in years. Paul and I also did a great 2 pitch 5.10 just left of Family Picnic called "Fathers Day". It's adequately protected with a mix of gear (bring some small wires) and bolts, and very fun. Highly recommended. It has its own anchor on top of P1, but shares the "Family Picnic" top anchor.

Cheers,

Derek Sep 30, 2011

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