Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Anarchist , The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blinded By The Puss T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloody Beetroots, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Moonlite T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clark Bar Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Vein , The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dyno Problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Edgy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exposed TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear The Wolf T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Food Pyramid T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Forearm Frenzy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Its Own Spirit T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jungle Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Kilometer Variation V4 6B
Kyles Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lisa's Layback T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magic Central S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Marmalade T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Modern Collective T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mudskipper, The T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
P&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pisces T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Psycho Jap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ridiculoid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shape Shifter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silver Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sirius T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sleep Walker , The S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer V5 6C
Super Slab T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Vivid V5 6C
TRad Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tickery T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tokyo Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trickery T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twilight Singer T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wallow In The Hollow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
We Don't Toprope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeitgeist T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Bill Lutkis. FFA: Shylo
Page Views: 1,809 total · 22/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Sep 25, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Edit]

Start by soloing up the obvious easy corner in the middle of the "Psycho Jap" wall. Stick clip the first bolt and boulder on to the start under the low roof to reach a huge jug. The initial start is much harder if you are short. From the huge jug just over the low roof launch into a finger intensive boulder problem into big holds again. From the big holds in the middle go to the last bolt. From here either go right and top out on jugs and walk around to the anchor (easy) or launch left and commit to a difficult topout boulder problem right near the anchor. Don't worry your protection is at or just below your feet and the fall is safe.

Video:
youtube.com/watch?v=ncqFNgC…

Location [Edit]

This climb goes up the center of the psycho jap wall to climbers left of the Z-crack. It was horribly sandy, dirty, and neglected. Now it has been cleaned, rediscovered, and climbed more frequently to be enjoyed again.

Protection [Edit]

Glue-ins

Photos

John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.12
John Biehn   Madison, CT
  5.12
Top out to the left is pumpy and technical... top out to the right has lots of lichen on it but seems easier?... Its easiest If you put long draws on the anchor... Fun climb! Pumpy up high! Oct 5, 2011
GymRat  
Anchor has chains now. May 18, 2012
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
  5.12b
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
  5.12b
got on this thing today...the top sloper was baking in the sun and I clipped the chains, went for it....and slid off pretty much instantly even despite chalking before it. I'm taking the send so I can feel better about myself, but that direct topout feels downright impossible in 70 degrees and sun; the sloper just bakes and its a pretty crummy hold as well. I could have topped out to the right on seemingly better holds as well. Regardless if this thing was 20ft longer it would compare with classics in world class areas. Thanks so much to the developers, this crag is sweet! Can't wait to get back! Apr 8, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Looks like a fantastic route. But did the contributor or local admin consider that the name is racist and probably offends some people? If you were around some Japanese visitors, would you openly say it without cringing? Aug 13, 2017

More About Psycho Jap

Printer-Friendly