Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Bill Lutkis. FFA: Shylo
Page Views: 2,050 total · 22/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Sep 25, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

Start by soloing up the obvious easy corner in the middle of the "Psycho Jap" wall. Stick clip the first bolt and boulder on to the start under the low roof to reach a huge jug. The initial start is much harder if you are short. From the huge jug just over the low roof launch into a finger intensive boulder problem into big holds again. From the big holds in the middle go to the last bolt. From here either go right and top out on jugs and walk around to the anchor (easy) or launch left and commit to a difficult topout boulder problem right near the anchor. Don't worry your protection is at or just below your feet and the fall is safe.

Video:
youtube.com/watch?v=ncqFNgC…

Location

This climb goes up the center of the psycho jap wall to climbers left of the Z-crack. It was horribly sandy, dirty, and neglected. Now it has been cleaned, rediscovered, and climbed more frequently to be enjoyed again.

Protection

Glue-ins

Photos