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900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 34
votes
Routes in Private Idaho
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900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Battered Sandwich T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beckey-Stanley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brave the Suppressed Laughter of the Tweeny Maid T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Constantinople (Istanbul Extension) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Curious Poses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eraserhead S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I Am In Top a Shader T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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I Can See Your House From Here S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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I Hear it is Warm in Space this Time of Year TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Imagine Your Best Student Here T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Istanbul T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Fern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Noodle T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prairie Fire that Wanders, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Senior Citizens in Space T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Short and Stupid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sparky Spangler's Last Stunt TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spineless S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tea Bag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Three Trucks Stacked on Top of Each Other S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wet Dream T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wild Turkey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Greg Olsen & Jon Nelson, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 3,807 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Nelson on Sep 23, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
Steep face climbing, sort of like an easier version of Model Worker.
Start to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake take you to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers.
A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.
From the anchor, one can do a short bit of easy climbing to reach the anchor on "Prairie fire" to top-rope the latter. Conversely, one can top-rope "900" from the anchors on "Prairie fire".
Start to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake take you to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers.
A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.
From the anchor, one can do a short bit of easy climbing to reach the anchor on "Prairie fire" to top-rope the latter. Conversely, one can top-rope "900" from the anchors on "Prairie fire".
Protection
Five bolts. Helpful to bring a hand-to-wide-hands camming unit for the flake above the 4th bolt. Small nuts may be helpful before and after the 5th bolt.
History
On the FA, we started further left, doing some even harder face moves. I am not sure if we used the first bolt either. (Now I cannot climb it this way, even on TR.) The very last bolt is also a recent addition. Seems rather crazy now that we rated it 10c.
The name comes from a headline in the Seattle Times around the time of the FA.
The name comes from a headline in the Seattle Times around the time of the FA.
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