This route can be climbed up, or down in lieu of rapping the rock. From the upper South Face of the rock, look down perhaps 10 or 15 meters to see a low angle set of cracks rising up and right. These are formed by a series of three large chunks of rock on a ledge. The first looks like a death-flake, but is not needed, as perfect, circular, in-cut hand and footholds lie just to the right of it. Climb up these and then up to get solid hands (and gear if desired) over the top of the second flake. Continue on this, hand traversing right with good sloping feet to the third chunk of rock. Gear is available here and there. Pop up onto the gully/ramp above and turn left to head for the summit.