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I am in top a shader

5.11c, Trad, TR, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
FA: Darryl Cramer, Jon Nelson
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

A bouldery face move off the ground leads to a bolt. Traverse left on a large edge and go up to a mantle with a bolt (can be done by stepping in from the left). The face crux involves climbing from the ledge to the start of the crack.

The crack crux is at the bottom. Soon thereafter, a sequence of two hand pods is reached, providing some rest. But the crack remains interesting and pumpy to the top.

Location

This is the first route to the left of "900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores". It ascends the obvious thin crack on the headwall.

It is very easy to set up a top-rope on this route. You can walk onto the top belay ledge from the trail above the cliff. Look for the hand-rail chain - it is in the area below "Peanuts to serve you" at Lookout Point.

Protection

Four bolts and a fixed pin where the route joins "Beckey-Stanley" near the top. The crack takes small nuts and cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A wet day on I am in Top a Shader.
[Hide Photo] A wet day on I am in Top a Shader.
I am top(roping) in a (tree) shade(r).
[Hide Photo] I am top(roping) in a (tree) shade(r).
The finger crack on the upper half.
[Hide Photo] The finger crack on the upper half.
Oct 2018. Not a great climb to do when wet. Amazingly, the next weekend (after a dry week) it didn't feel dirty or mossy at all.
[Hide Photo] Oct 2018. Not a great climb to do when wet. Amazingly, the next weekend (after a dry week) it didn't feel dirty or mossy at all.
Chain anchor at top if I am in Top a Shader. You can access this anchor from below the left side of Lookout Point and toprope the climb.
[Hide Photo] Chain anchor at top if I am in Top a Shader. You can access this anchor from below the left side of Lookout Point and toprope the climb.
The crack section of I am in top a shader.
[Hide Photo] The crack section of I am in top a shader.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Drewsky
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb. If you're short, the rating might provoke some shame, however. The slabby face crux is 100% granite: weird and hard. I'm not sure if it's still there, but a knifeblade piton at the crux seemed somewhat of an obstacle/curiosity and didn't seem to add much to the protection. The crack is excellent and makes this climb a real joy after the thrutchy slab crux. Jan 13, 2012
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
[Hide Comment] This route has everything. Some technical face moves to start, an 'indexy', balancy mantel and slabby section, a powerful, pockety crux, then fun finger locks for 30ft. Do it! You can pull on the bolts through the slabby section if needed. Everything is well protected. Mar 5, 2015
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
[Hide Comment] A bit height dependent, or at least favoring those with positive ape indexes.

Chris is right, you can pull on draws through slab moves, I did ;)

Great route. Sep 12, 2016
Zacks
 
[Hide Comment] Love this climb, it's so fun and really tricky. Really had to work out hyper specific beta.

We gave this a pretty good scrubbing in early September '18 hopefully stays clean for a bit Sep 30, 2018
Matt Carroll
Seattle WA
[Hide Comment] awesome route. if you ever need to put a hard-person in their place see them to private idaho and saddle them up at the base of this bucking bronco. Most cant keep it hoofs down on this pretty pony. Apr 2, 2019