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Routes in Waterfall Dome

Bellagio, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Whom the Bells Toll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Tristan Higbee, Spencer Parkin, September 2011
Page Views: 1,967 total, 26/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Sep 22, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. Details

Description

This is a fun route. It’s not as steep as For Whom the Bells Toll and the rock isn’t quite as good (it's a little grittier), but it's got some really neat and enjoyable climbing on it. The route is characterized by smooth slabs and chickenheads. Lots and lots of chickenheads.

Pitch 1: Long pitch. Climb up some slabs that are interspersed with horizontal cracks (there are 2 bolts on the slabs). Do some mantling and then head up the corner to the right of the knobby roof (which looks like a roof from the ground but is really just a steeper section of rock). Make a reachy move out left to a massive chickenhead on the steep section, clip a bolt, and then follow the chickenhead ladder to a 2-bolt belay. 5.7-, 70m.

You can set up a gear belay using finger- and fist-sized pieces under the knobby roof if rope drag is too bad. If the knobby roof isn’t to your liking, there’s a gnarly flared 5.6++ chimney out right.

Pitch 2: Climb up the slab with sweet vertical dikes and chickenheads past 3 bolts. Some shallow horizontals can fit a piece or two, sling a chickenhead, clip a bolt, and finish the pitch at the 2-bolt belay. 5.7-, 55m.

Pitch 3: Climb up the fist-ish crack, sling a small bush, go up the face (1 bolt). The pitch then levels out a bit. Head up and right to the solitary bolt in the middle of pitch 4 on For Whom the Bell Tolls. Finish up that pitch (up the cool chickenhead headwall) and then climb the last short pitch of FWtBT (#5) to the summit of the formation.

Rappel down FWtBT with a single 70m rope (7 rappels, 2 of which are short).

Location

Bushwhack up to East Waterfall Dome and head left to the base of the route Kinabalu. From Kinabalu, head straight west on a faint trail to the base of For Whom the Bells Toll, then keep heading past that route for 40 or 50 feet to the base of The Bellagio.

Protection

1 set of cams from tips to #4, with maybe an extra #2 and #3. Tons of slings. Several 48” slings would be awesome to minimize drag on the long pitches.
This climb is way better than for whom the bell tolls. Each pitch is more sustained and less 5.5 slab than the route to the right. The offwidth is awesome and protects with a double length sling (no need for anything bigger than a size 2 BD C4 on the route). Brings lots of runners to reduce drag. You can easy do FWtBT and this route in a day. Apr 5, 2015