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Routes in Duck Wall

Endless Skies S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Index Air Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Fire T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Making the little ducks quack T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Meadow and Spicer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Message to Love S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Planet Caravan T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweets for Manuel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Boulder, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Darryl Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 1,365 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Sep 21, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

P1 starts with a stick-clip (see stick lying nearby) to the first bolt. Either pull up on the rope to reach the ledge or do a short V2-3 (5.11c) sequence. From the ledge, follow the corner up to the roof (~10a), go over the roof (~10a/b), face climb up to the crack, and climb the wide crack (~8+/9) to a large, slightly downsloping ledge with a chained 2-bolt anchor.

P2 starts up the corner just above the anchor, and goes up to the crack above on the headwall. The crux move is about 5.8, getting into the crack. The crack, which is finger-sized with hand pods every few feet, goes to a nice flat ledge with a two-bolt chained anchor.

P3 goes up the short flake/corner system to the top (~5.6). There is no metallic anchor up here, just a bunch of trees. But the view and setting is wonderful.

Location

Follow trail rightward along base of wall to highest point. Look for the bolt about 12-feet up.

Protection

Small wired nuts to fist-sized cams. It's useful to have a small brass nut (e.g., RP #5) for the first piece off the ledge on P1.
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Thanks Nate.
Perhaps it is harder than V3. I haven't done much outdoor bouldering and was just guessing based on the conversion to YDS. It involves slopers, so might depend on the temperature and amount of lichen.

That's good to know about connecting with Little Fire. Apr 4, 2016
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10a/b V4
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10a/b V4
Climbed this route today. I have no idea how to do the start, we cleaned off the features a little bit and it still felt way harder than V2-V3. The rest of P1 is a little dirty and spicy but lots of fun. The route goes through some really cool features. From the top of P1 you can go left into Little Fire for the spicy finishing pitches or do the fun, surprisingly clean, finishing pitch. Apr 3, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c V2-3
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c V2-3
I don't know what to say about the start. I considered trying free climbing. Can't imagine how that could be V-2-3. But it was pretty easy to aid. Fun SPICY climbing above. Pulling through the roof was pretty scary moving above the bolt with continued small holds, but the OW was fun.
A nice extension is to wander up the now destroyed by rock fall slope to climb Pork Chop Torpedo 10b. Aug 20, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Named after a famous Index climber's pet ducks. Mar 28, 2013
michal
Everett WA
 
michal   Everett WA
 
Awesome route that has cool granite features, even has a hueco Sep 23, 2011