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Head Up Dirty

5.12, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3 from 44 votes
FA: Matt Lloyd
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description

Start on two good, incut crimpers, climb straight up following bolts to a good rest below the roof (12a/b), then clip the draw in the roof and make big moves out the horizontal roof (12+). This is height-dependent. Mantel and clip the anchors.

Location

This is on the east side of Tunnel Two, right of the tunnel. It is above Hip at the Lip and Power Play and below Idiot Savant. Approach by walking up the slabs on the north side of the road before Tunnel Two (like you're walking to Twitch, 5.12d). Continue up slabs until it's possible to walk left to the base of the cliff.

Protection

9 quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The crux.
[Hide Photo] The crux.
Head Up Dirty.<br> Photo taken by Adam Peters.
[Hide Photo] Head Up Dirty. Photo taken by Adam Peters.
Flying off Into The Highway!
[Hide Photo] Flying off Into The Highway!
Head Up Dirty.
[Hide Photo] Head Up Dirty.
Topo of Head Up Dirty.
[Hide Photo] Topo of Head Up Dirty.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
[Hide Comment] Nice work, Matt, can't wait to try it.... Sep 21, 2011
SteveZ
Excelsior, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Already quite clean despite being so new (much more so than Ghetto Activity). Route climbs really well... fun moves through the roof! Thanks for the effort on some new routes, Matt. Oct 4, 2011
Matthew Lloyd
denver, colorado
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] I appreciate the feedback, Steve, nice to get positive words on MP once and a while. Oct 5, 2011
Cassidy Hill
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] A nice addition to the canyon and a reason to visit this seldom climbed at crag. Depending on your strengths, the techy bottom half may seem cruxier than the roof. Thanks, Matt. Oct 26, 2011
monkeyvanya
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] Lower part felt much harder than the roof to me. Roof is wild and exciting nevertheless. Sep 6, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] This seems pretty hard unless you are probably 6' or taller. Oct 17, 2012
Ben Collett
[Hide Comment] If one wants, a lower start is available off of the nice, big, jug rail that forms the first foot for the regular start. This adds some difficulty to the route. "Low Down Dirty?" Apr 18, 2014
Mason Caiby
RVA
 
[Hide Comment] Rad line! 5'8" and she goes... two ways to get through out from the roof. Apr 28, 2015
Alexander K
The road
[Hide Comment] A chunk broke off the crux hold at the roof. The route still goes, but hopefully the hold doesn't break anymore. Overall, there is still a lot of loose stuff on this climb and the bolt line next to it. A helmet may be worthwhile.

The roof crux is incredibly height-dependent. Probably between 11+ and 12+ depending on height and wingspan. Nov 14, 2016
evan h
Longmont, CO
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Another data point: with a 5'6" wingspan, this still goes, but you're going to have to work in the roof (and do a bit of jumping down low)! Full on Sharma dyno to the lip, and controlling the swing proved to be the most difficult. The undercling crimp is garbage, and I am not sure how much better it was prior to breaking (mentioned above). I'd say maybe 12a to the rest (classic moves), then anywhere from 12a/b to 12+ for the full route depending on wingspan in the roof. Nov 27, 2016
Garrett Garner-Wells
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I'm 6'2" with a +2 ape index and thought the bottom of the route was harder than the roof. Fantastic climb! Mar 30, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
[Hide Comment] Holy reachy bejesus, man! At 5'7" with 0 ape, I felt like I was always an inch or two away from ALL the holds, starting from the first move off the ground. A really cool route, but get ready for a struggle-fest if you lack the wingspan.... Mar 30, 2017