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Greatest Generation
5.7 PG13,
Trad, TR, 35 ft (11 m),
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
FA: unknown
Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> W Bluff 04 - Gr…
> Great Tower
Description
A climb from the Old School. Muscle your way up the wide crack (a couple of fist jams help). Above the ledge, reach just around the right corner for a fingery layback/sidepull.
Location
Wide crack up the North fin of Great Tower.
Protection
Fist sized gear low, manky small gear up high. This route sports two ancient pins. The upper one would have to be replaced for this to be a well-protected lead, I think.
[Hide Photo] North Chimney climbs, and access to top of Cracker Barrel. The easiest approach to these climbs is on an easy "stairway" right of the view in this pic. Notice the keyhole that goes all the w…
[Hide Photo] Greatest Generation. Pretty hard for a 5.7 IMHO.
[Hide Comment] This route is burly for the grade and especially for an on-sight lead. The offwith in the bottom part is a nice grunt for 3 moves or so. The upper section is tricky and devious to enter, off the stacked blocks, in order to get into position to clip the manky old ring pin and place gear to back it up. The moves past are not super hard but are very fun and styln despite the manky gear placements and the muck and plants. Could use a bit of a scrub but I would recommnd this route to others with the caveat's divulged. It was fun to clip the fixed pins here in Trad and TR land.
Oct 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] OK it was my last climb of the day and I was a bit tired, but this seemed like a horrible sandbag at 5.7 even by DL standards. All the features that look like good holds from the ground are really not so good. It's awkward, and quite vertical or even overhanging in spots. I was out of gas by the time I reached the top. Maybe if I re-climb it with fresh arms and get the difficult sequences nailed, I might think it's a 5.8, but I can't imagine how it can be a 5.7 even though both guide books have it at that rating. (Or, maybe I just had a bad day.)
Also, I cleared a bunch of moss and fern off a small horizontal hold just before the top at the right corner which should help at the finish.
May 25, 2020
Avg: 1 from 1
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Madison, WI
The offwith in the bottom part is a nice grunt for 3 moves or so. The upper section is tricky and devious to enter, off the stacked blocks, in order to get into position to clip the manky old ring pin and place gear to back it up. The moves past are not super hard but are very fun and styln despite the manky gear placements and the muck and plants. Could use a bit of a scrub but I would recommnd this route to others with the caveat's divulged. It was fun to clip the fixed pins here in Trad and TR land. Oct 2, 2011
Also, I cleared a bunch of moss and fern off a small horizontal hold just before the top at the right corner which should help at the finish. May 25, 2020