Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 72 total · 1/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 19, 2011
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

A climb from the Old School. Muscle your way up the wide crack (a couple of fist jams help). Above the ledge, reach just around the right corner for a fingery layback/sidepull.

Location

Wide crack up the North fin of Great Tower.

Protection

Fist sized gear low, manky small gear up high. This route sports two ancient pins. The upper one would have to be replaced for this to be a well-protected lead, I think.

Photos

Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
This route is burly for the grade and especially for an on-sight lead.
The offwith in the bottom part is a nice grunt for 3 moves or so. The upper section is tricky and devious to enter, off the stacked blocks, in order to get into position to clip the manky old ring pin and place gear to back it up. The moves past are not super hard but are very fun and styln despite the manky gear placements and the muck and plants. Could use a bit of a scrub but I would recommnd this route to others with the caveat's divulged. It was fun to clip the fixed pins here in Trad and TR land. Oct 2, 2011