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Routes in Jug Wall

Jug Massacre S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ode to Doda T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Unclear. First bolted by Kevin Pogue
Page Views: 1,113 total, 15/month
Shared By: Matt Schroer on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

As the name implies, this route is crazy, juggy, hueco goodness just waiting to be slayed by your climbing prowess. The first crux between the first and second bolt feels a bit bouldery, while the second crux is up high and involves a fun deadpoint (height dependent). Overall, this route is super fun and worth the hike in my book, if you are in to moderate sport climbing.

Location

This route is easily identifiable as the only bolted route on the rock. After the first 10 feet, it travels straight up steep, crazy cool huecos for 60 feet. One 60 meter rope. Beta route photo coming soon...

Protection

11 bolts to rap ring anchor. 13 quickdraws total.

Description

As the name implies, this route is crazy, juggy, hueco goodness just waiting to be slayed by your climbing prowess. The first crux between the first and second bolt feels a bit bouldery, while the second crux is up high and involves a fun deadpoint (height dependent). Overall, this route is super fun and worth the hike in my book, if you are in to moderate sport climbing.

Location

This route is easily identifiable as the only bolted route on the rock. After the first 10 feet, it travels straight up steep, crazy cool huecos for 60 feet. One 60 meter rope. Beta route photo coming soon...

Protection

11 bolts to rap ring anchor. 13 quickdraws total.

Photos

This route was on BLM land, now closed to climbing. The bolts have been removed. Sep 28, 2017
davidaw
 
davidaw  
 
Fantastic climb.. Not super challenging, but very enjoyable and well bolted! Jun 16, 2012