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Routes in Land of the Shorties

1-8-7 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Fishador T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ghetto Toes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greatful Deadpoint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half A Full Monte S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hopeful Monsters S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jawbone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mechanical Animals S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Monster Baiter S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearl Jammin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Porcupining Away S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shoot the moon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Steep Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Giant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sylvester Sidewalk S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Violet Sanctuary S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jamie Coin
Page Views: 358 total, 5/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A 5.11b created to keep 5.11b climbers honest. This route is a massive undertaking. A roof pull at the very start leads to tiny, sequential holds that require the exact placement of three monos and the sheer luck to plunge your fingers into a desparate two finger that saves your life just in the nick of time.

Strong climbing to a nice flake under the roof then leads to a monumental sidepull that lets you gain access to the headwall over the roof. Tiny feet and well placed hands then lead you up to the monstrous finish or one long ride if you fail to wake the sleeping giant within you.

This is an old school 5.11b which actually might be a 5.11b after you have finally red pointed it. Plan on spending the entire day projecting and be happy if you manage to get a top-rope send before the sun goes down.

This is a giant waiting to be slayed, and an opponent that will not lay down and die. Get on this pumpy, technical climb and remember what it is like to really work for something!

Location

Stuck on a buttress to the very left of Proudest Monkey and to the right of Mechanical Animals. Route can belayed from the trail. Climber can use the crack to the left to gain the pedestal if the very first, bulgy roof pull doesn't go well.

Protection

Bring 10 quickdraws. Open shut anchors.
Stick clip first bolt if you are not as good as David was with his sling shot.

Photos

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