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Routes in Mile 1

One Ounce of Ouzo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip Me A Roofie T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Estenson, Erik Odenthal, Paul Bucher
Page Views: 357 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mike Estenson on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The crux is a mixed 5.9 crack to the right of the main corner that requires wide and small gear with stemming that leads into a move left into the main corner. From here continue up a varying size crack/corner with jams, stems, and some off-width. There is plenty of protection in the fun ascent that leads to a great ledge and a two-bolt anchor. Great moderate with easy access from a big parking lot just up River Road.

Location

First prominent corner left of Slip Me a Roofie. Rappel from the anchor. This climb is in an obvious wash across the road from the Riverway Regulations kiosk.

Protection

#.3 to #6 Camalots with #8 - #11 hexes and some stoppers. Bring doubles of hand-sized pieces. To decrease rope drag use some long slings on the left traverse.

Photos

paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
much better route than it looks. easy access and fun. well protected with a nice range of gear from small to large. a couple extra hand size. will top rope well. Sep 19, 2011

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