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N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Crowders Mountain
> Main Climbing A…
> 04. David's Castle Wall
Instant Karma Direct
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 11
votes
Routes in 04. David's Castle Wall
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Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Caterpillar T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Shower T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | FA: Gil Harder, Kip Connor FFA: Rodney Lanier, Wes Love |
| Page Views: | 1,978 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Start on the crack/face that leads to the left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to the ledge under the small overhang. Climb the technical crux leading past the small overhang to mellower climbing. Climb past the aged rusted anchor.
OPTIONS-
1)The most common option is to climb to the Energy Czar anchor. A top rope set-up will require a directional. Keep your anchor short for less rope drag over the ledge.
2)After climbing to the top, I truly recommend it. The rock is less traveled but the gear options are bomber and abundant. The climbing feels 5.7 and there is a great wide vertical crack for a bomber natural anchor. Bring up your second and walk off or use a 70 meter rope for a top rope set up.
I feel the anchor should be replaced. Since most people stop at the Energy Czar anchor, the replacement anchor should be moved to the top of the cliff! It could then be an easy access Top Rope set up for INSTANT KARMA DIRECT, TEMPORARY TRADITION, and CASTLE CORNER. The rock would clean up after more traffic. A win-win for everyone.
OPTIONS-
1)The most common option is to climb to the Energy Czar anchor. A top rope set-up will require a directional. Keep your anchor short for less rope drag over the ledge.
2)After climbing to the top, I truly recommend it. The rock is less traveled but the gear options are bomber and abundant. The climbing feels 5.7 and there is a great wide vertical crack for a bomber natural anchor. Bring up your second and walk off or use a 70 meter rope for a top rope set up.
I feel the anchor should be replaced. Since most people stop at the Energy Czar anchor, the replacement anchor should be moved to the top of the cliff! It could then be an easy access Top Rope set up for INSTANT KARMA DIRECT, TEMPORARY TRADITION, and CASTLE CORNER. The rock would clean up after more traffic. A win-win for everyone.
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