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Butcher of Baghdad
5.11d,
Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 10
votes
FA: Diab Rabie
N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Crowders Mountain
> Main Climbing A…
> 04. David's Castle Wall
Description
'The Butcher' rarely sees any repeats because of it's sustained, sharp crimp, face climbing style.
Start on 'Energy Czar'. Trend up and right after the third bolt. Two options here.
(5.12)- Staying right of the bolt line was the original intention of this reachy crimp option.
(5.11+)- Staying slightly cliff left of the bolted line yields a technical, crimpy, but less reachy alternative to the (5.12) variation.
Originally this route shared an anchor with INSTANT KARMA DIRECT(5.10d) but this anchor is in need of some repair. Climb up to the ENERGY CZAR(5.10c) anchor located on the big ledge.
Location
This route starts on the same line as 'Energy Czar' but veers right at the third bolt.
Right of 'Caterpillar'.
Left of 'Instant Karma Direct'.
Protection
Six bolts to a two bolt anchor shared with 'Instant Karma Direct' and 'Karma'.
Charlotte, NC
West Columbia, SC
Columbia, SC
Keep your anchor short(two opposing quickdraws...with lockers for all you skeptics) and the rope drag won't be as bad.
When you rappel the rope doesn't move on the rock so it shouldn't tear up the rope when you are cleaning... unless you are being lowered on the rings in which case is seen, by some, as bad practice due to the wear on the rings.
If anything the anchors should be moved to the top of the cliff to extend the routes... just my opinion. Jan 30, 2013
Currently Charlotte