Start up the large flake on the left edge of the wall. The technical crux, at about 10b, is doing the moves just off the ledge, about 30-feet up (just past bolt 2). (These are the only moves on small holds -- the rest of the route is a jug-fest.) Follow the juggy rail up and right. One can go over the first bulge directly or by moving left (both about 10a). The pumpy crux is at the lip, getting over the overhanging bulge. The route continues about 30 feet on the slab above.

The anchor is 3 3/8" bolts with chains. One can break the pitch into two by belaying at the chains on the first ledge.

Starts on the far left edge of the dark-rock region, in front of the big maple tree. Look for the obvious flake, which may have a fixed runner on top.

13 bolts, but bring a small camming unit (~1/2 to 3/4") or small brass nuts to protect some 5.7 to 5.8 moves on the upper slab. One can also clip a runner or two getting to the ledge about 30-feet up.