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Routes in Car Wall

Burn Signals T,S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diesel TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Drive On T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Entertainment for Men T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firestone T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flat Tire T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Passing Lane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scorched Earth Defenses T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
FA: Wade Parker, Brade Hoover
Page Views: 1,972 total, 26/month
Shared By: Wade Parker on Sep 17, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Quickly becoming one of the favorite 5.10's on the West side of the mountain, this sport route is a great steep line through jugs with a technical section in the middle.

Location

Only bolted line on Car Wall. Right of Firestone.

Protection

Four bolts to a chain anchor. Gear can be placed between the 1st and 2nd bolt if needed.

Photos

Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
I was at the base of the Car Wall recently and eyeballed this line again in light of the recent comments here. I agree with Wade that the first bold should be moved up at least two feet. This puts it in stick clip range for the sportys, while those opting for a more ground up effort can plug gear to protect moves off the ground. Sep 14, 2013
Thank you Wade and Brade for putting up this awesome line in my opinion i'm glad you decided to keep it a sport route for those sport climbers like me. Mar 10, 2013
Wade Parker
Clover SC
 
Wade Parker   Clover SC
 
Thanks for the input guys. After hearing your comments and debating the topic with a few highly respected friends of mine, I am going to leave the bolts. The route should have been put up in better style but since the bolts are already there, there is no since in pulling them. I will however, move the first one up some to protect the ground fall potential while clipping the second. In the mean time, if you feel the need, you can get gear between the first and second bolts.

I will also replace the anchors soon.

Climb safe,

Wade Aug 28, 2012
Brandon H - SC
Jackson SC
Brandon H - SC   Jackson SC
I'm with Eduardo. Not my call of course... but I for instance lead 5.9 trad and below... its nice to push my limits on a sport 5.10 hard to find those in Crowders. In my humble opinion the bolts should be left since they have already scarred the wall. You make the call brother. Aug 28, 2012
Eduardo Ramirez
Columbia, SC
 
Eduardo Ramirez   Columbia, SC
 
At one point I would have been all for making it a mixed route but I now feel like it is nice having a sport route for those that don't climb trad. I would leave it as is... but that is just my opinion. One can choose to do it mixed but if the bolts are removed, then you are leaving out the sport climbers.

It is your route and your call but when one bolt was removed from the retro-bolted MAIN EVENT on WRESTLING WALL the masses were and are still upset even though it takes gear right next to the bolt scar. Some people just don't climb trad but that doesn't mean they shouldn't have some routes right?

Thanks Wade, for putting up this (in my opinion) classic. Aug 23, 2012
Wade Parker
Clover SC
 
Wade Parker   Clover SC
 
FA - Wade Parker and Brade Hoover. After climbing the route recently, the topic of discussion was whether or not I should yank the 1st and last bolt. This route can be done all trad however, I feel it would be a little safer due to rock quality if left mixed (thoughts?). I will also replace the anchors when I have time. Until then, they are bomber. Aug 22, 2012