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Routes in David's Castle (backside)

Dish, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nuclear Cottage Cheese T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ooga Chocka T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overhang Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stupid Roof T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Ben Fowler, Wes Love
Page Views: 661 total · 8/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 17, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This part of the wall could use some traffic. The rock quality is chossy, sharp, and brittle but I feel that with a little Top Rope traffic the wall and crack left of Stupid Roof could clean up nice.

BE CAREFUL if you choose to lead this route.

Location

Can be considered in between DAVIDS CASTLE and DAVIDS CASTLE BACKSIDE.

Cliff right of 'The Nose'('Ooga Chocka', 'The Dish', 'Nuclear Cottage Cheese', etc...).

Cliff left of 'Rocky's Roof'(Electra, Caterpillar, Energy Czar, etc...).

Protection

North Carolina Trad Rack. Small to Medium gear and extendable draws/slings. One old rusted fixed pin on the cliff left side of the roof.

DON'T TRUST the obvious undercling flake with a pin scar (chopped bolt) underneath the roof. It FLEXES. Good gear to the left of this in the vertical cracks.

Very chossy, sharp, and brittle after the roof. A hold broke near the top and I almost took a whipper.

Sling a boulder to set up a Top Rope or rappel off the 'Ooga Chocka' anchor to clean your gear.

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