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N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Crowders Mountain
> Main Climbing A…
> 03. David's Castle (b…
Stupid Roof
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1 from 3
votes
Routes in 03. David's Castle (backside)
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Dish, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nose, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Nuclear Cottage Cheese T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ooga Chocka T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overhang Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stupid Roof T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Doug Reed, Ben Fowler, Wes Love |
| Page Views: | 1,396 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 17, 2011 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
This part of the wall could use some traffic. The rock quality is chossy, sharp, and brittle but I feel that with a little Top Rope traffic the wall and crack left of Stupid Roof could clean up nice.
BE CAREFUL if you choose to lead this route.
BE CAREFUL if you choose to lead this route.
Location
Can be considered in between DAVIDS CASTLE and DAVIDS CASTLE BACKSIDE.
Cliff right of 'The Nose'('Ooga Chocka', 'The Dish', 'Nuclear Cottage Cheese', etc...).
Cliff left of 'Rocky's Roof'(Electra, Caterpillar, Energy Czar, etc...).
Cliff right of 'The Nose'('Ooga Chocka', 'The Dish', 'Nuclear Cottage Cheese', etc...).
Cliff left of 'Rocky's Roof'(Electra, Caterpillar, Energy Czar, etc...).
Protection
North Carolina Trad Rack. Small to Medium gear and extendable draws/slings. One old rusted fixed pin on the cliff left side of the roof.
DON'T TRUST the obvious undercling flake with a pin scar (chopped bolt) underneath the roof. It FLEXES. Good gear to the left of this in the vertical cracks.
Very chossy, sharp, and brittle after the roof. A hold broke near the top and I almost took a whipper.
Sling a boulder to set up a Top Rope or rappel off the 'Ooga Chocka' anchor to clean your gear.
DON'T TRUST the obvious undercling flake with a pin scar (chopped bolt) underneath the roof. It FLEXES. Good gear to the left of this in the vertical cracks.
Very chossy, sharp, and brittle after the roof. A hold broke near the top and I almost took a whipper.
Sling a boulder to set up a Top Rope or rappel off the 'Ooga Chocka' anchor to clean your gear.
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