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Routes in Locals Only Rock

Get Lost T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intruder Alert TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Locals Only T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Trespassing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Ridge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Pipeline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealth Mode TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surfin' Safari T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tube T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Scott Cole, Errett Allen, Stan VanMarbod (May '83)
Page Views: 541 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Sep 16, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Towards the right end of the formation is a vertical thin crack that heads up about 20 ft to a slabby ledge. Above this, take a left-slanting finger crack heading up towards some bulges. There are a variety of ways to finish, I ended up pulling a 5.8 bulge into a flared chimney. The Lewis guide shows there being bolted anchors near the top of the route, but we couldn't find any and rapped Locals Only instead.

Location

To the right of No Trespassing, and left of Tough Muffin.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9-
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9-
imho this is the best route on the wall and deserves way more love than it is getting. consistently fun, varied climbing with a bit of length thrown in. the middle section can be done several different ways - rt. seems easier, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. top out via the left side hand crack. Jul 7, 2015
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
We really enjoyed this climb. Long, varied climbing on good rock. We didn't see an anchor either-probably a misprint in the book or it's been chopped. We climbed the left steep dihedral finish (pic ^) which has good features and protection. Probably way more fun than groveling up one of the wide chimneys. Definitely would love to climb it again. Sep 19, 2014
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
 
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
 
A good pitch with some varied climbing. Don't worry about using all your thin gear for the first half, from the roof to the top it's all wider stuff. No fixed anchor at the top, but there are good options for gear, and then it's an easy scramble over to the "Locals Only" rap anchor. Mar 28, 2012