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Routes in Eagle Creek Cliff

Bad Perception T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between Two Worlds T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Ice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eye of the Eagle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Here and Now T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid Shadows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poop Chute, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chris McNamara, Eric Volz, Brian Cork, 9/03
Page Views: 1,156 total, 15/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 15, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Blocky climbing and a short hand crack are prelude to an intimidating four foot roof. The crux roof is wide jams and some interesting footwork. There are several ways to tackle it, but choose wisely.

The rest of the climb is fairly sustained throughout the striking arc of the left leaning fingers to hand crack that follows. There is an off-width pod and a bit of face climbing to negotiate before the anchors, but the grade lightens up quite a bit at this point.

There is a 10c variation that comes in from the left and takes a large flake to a right leaning crack before merging with the upper section. It is pretty fun but may be best to toprope since there is still a lot of cleaning up to do and some doubt as to how solidly some of the features - especially the rope eating flake you use for much of the beginning - are attached to the climb. In fact, the alarm clock-sized block I managed to dislodge in passing wasn't attached too well at all!

As a side note, Eye of the Eagle is more than a bit soft at the 11c it is listed at in Supertopo and in comparison to nearby climbs. Or, maybe Spacewalk is just too damned sandbagged!

Location

The far end of Eagle Creek Cliff. Just look for the big roof.

Protection

Doubles of Small - 3" cams, Rap anchor

Photos

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