Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,219 total · 7/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 14, 2011
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Squeeze job next to Plane above your head. You can also use these bolts for double rope practice with Plane Above Your Head.

Follow the bolts to the overhang.

VARIATIONS

Arete(5.10) - Climb to the third bolt but then make your way on to the arete. Careful of the potential swing when leading.

Direct(5.10+) - Stay on the face but utilize the jugs cliff left after climbing past the bolt (See the picture, my left hand is on a thank goodness jug)

Super Direct (5.11-) - Stay on the face avoiding the jugs out left.

Location Suggest change

This wall can be accessed by walking down and cliff right of Red Wall. Walk past New Policy Wall and head right and up hill. A vague path is somewhat visible.

This is the bolted line on the left of Plane Above Your Head Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Four bolts to a cold shuts anchor with a bolted chain backup. Bring longer slings / webbing / cordelette if you don't want rope drag otherwise two opposing draws will do.

Photos

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