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Routes in t. Mya to the East End
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Benny Goodman (the King of Swing) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bro Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Converging Cracks T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Pillar, east face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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East by Southwest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flaring Vee Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jitterbug T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Monkey Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mya TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Rainy Daze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Southwest Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spider Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Triple Tier Notch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 322 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkiemike on Sep 14, 2011 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
A nice face climb in the "Gunks style" i.e. big moves between good stances at each horizontal. Nice straight line with opportunities to show off your problem solving skills.
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