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Routes in t. Mya to the East End

Benny Goodman (the King of Swing) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bro Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Converging Cracks T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Pillar, east face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
East by Southwest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flaring Vee Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jitterbug T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Monkey Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mya TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Rainy Daze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southwest Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Triple Tier Notch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 162 total · 2/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 14, 2011
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Edit]

A nice face climb in the "Gunks style" i.e. big moves between good stances at each horizontal. Nice straight line with opportunities to show off your problem solving skills.

Location [Edit]

25 ft right of the flaring V chimney (not described on MP, but a decent, if awkward 5.5 line) and 10 ft left of a large square boulder stack (Bro Crack starts behind this stack). See photo.

Protection [Edit]

Totally G rated if you have a normal rack. I placed from a #1 Met. TCU up to a #3 Camalot (but I could have used the 2 Camalot instead). Also a few small nuts.

Photos

A good addition to the crag, it climbs better than it looks and should clean up nicely. Oct 17, 2012
JSH

JSH    
Lots of climbing on this short route! Jul 11, 2017

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