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Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area

Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R
Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tip Trip (Formally 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R
White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,978 total, 26/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Sep 13, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Formally a thin desperate but well protected crack climb this route has been hit by rockfall the past two freeze/thaw seasons. What it turned into is an excellent moderate cragging pitch with wonderful climbing throughout. This could be a popular route to jump on if waiting for mobey.

Thin moves off the ground (Probably hard for the grade) to a stance. Place small pro and break right onto brand new rock then a slightly chossy ledge. Layback up the beautiful brand new left facing corner joining a shallow corner and hand crack to the anchor. Rap or lower with a single 60m


Old description: Excellent crack climbing off the ground gains a stance below the crux. Stay left using the face and crack, or stay right and climb the crack direct, (a little harder) up to a ledge. From here aim for a shallow corner flanked by a nice short hand crack (5.8). Belay from fixed pins above.

Location

Start about 50 feet south of Vertigo /Union Jack. This trip starts up a thin crack that splits a "mini buttress".

Protection

Protects very well, small nuts, cams to hand size. Rap with a single 60m rope.
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.10c/d
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.10c/d
Fun and short, easy for the grade. Aug 25, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.10c/d
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.10c/d
I think it is case Sep 16, 2011
Michael Z.  
 
I added some photos that should help with the location. I'm not familiar with the crack you mentioned but I'll take a look. Any info? Sep 15, 2011
Is this the very thin crack you pass walking north past vertigo before you get to "the zone" while walking towards the weissners area? Sep 15, 2011