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Routes in Zimmerbergwand 1

Armin Weich Gedenkweg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freundschaft S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lochgeheimnis (Herz Ass) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Murmeltier S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sachsenpfeiler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zufall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: A. Heinrich 1980
Page Views: 17 total · 0/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Sep 13, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This route is listed in the guidebook as being a 5, but my friends and I felt it was much harder than other 5s we've done, and we agreed it was harder than Trabant (5+). So I hope my grade of 5.8 is accurate.
The route is pretty consistently difficult, with many 5.8 moves throughout it. It's also a bit scary...
Start at the same start as Gemeinsam but go right immediately and skip the first bolt of Gemeinsam. Continue up through the mini dihedral and get up on top of it for a good stance. Clear your head and keep climbing to get to the second bolt. Keep going up until you get to a crack which goes up diagonally left. Follow this and smear your feet on the blank face and reach up to a big jug left of the last bolt. Clip it and hop up to the stance where the pigtail anchor is.

Protection

4 bolts + shared pigtail anchor

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