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Routes in Lost Creek Lower Tier

Bowling Balls and BB Brains T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Cochise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gripty Gravity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heatwave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Little Big Horn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tholian Web T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Threat, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Wendell Broussard
Page Views: 399 total, 5/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Old-school testpiece. Wendell maintained that this thing was safe to lead since small cams hit the marketplace, the second guy to try to lead this one broke his leg. After climbing it I can see why-this one is a highball problem with a bad landing (boulders) followed by the usual Willow Springs mellowness. The .10 moves are thin face and unprotected, the easier crack up top protects well with a single rack. I brought every small cam known to man, but nothing's going to keep you off the ground if you fall. The only placement possible down low is behind a paper-thin flake that you need as a handhold and you have to pull on gently so you don't break it. Placing behind the flake means if you fall you're still decking, and you destroy the only decent hold in the sequence. Sack up for this one or bring your sex pad and a spotter.

Location

Grey, waterworn face up to seam 25'-30' left of Little Big Horn.

Protection

Nothing through the crux, up higher solid gear helps you relax. Have a .5 camalot ready to go and you'll be happy to have a piece in at 25'.

Photos

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I belayed and followed JT up this thing about a decade ago. Jeremy had decided that morning after following up to 10+ but not leading anything harder than 8 that he was going to step it up. While he climbed this on site, he started shaking with a major case of Elvis leg well of the deck and mid-crux. It was so bad that Chris Burton and I very quietly started talking about how to break his fall. He pulled it together and climbed through no problem. Aug 20, 2012