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Routes in 5. Maggot Buttress

Lord of the Flies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Eric Carpenter 1999
Page Views: 417 total · 5/month
Shared By: Timmijal on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Climb up easy ground to the Bolt, Climb past the bolt (crux), and continue up cracks to the top.


This route is located at the Maggot Buttress to the right of the poker pile and before you reach Hermit Haven. Look for a lone bolt 10 ft up on a smooth face


Standard Rack larger cams are helpful,and a quick-draw for the bolt

The tree that was used for an Anchor is now very much dead.. There are some better looking trees further back, I would say this climb could use a bolted anchor if i can get a hold of some equipment i will try and place one up there


Co Springs, CO
Climbnh   Co Springs, CO
I skipped school to put this route up and was supposed to be taking a lord of the flys exam hence the name. I originally did it all trad. But put a bolt in as the micro nut's I had doubbled up probably would not of held. Dec 13, 2011
Did this route last weekend. We ended up doing a lot of cleaning and knocked off some massive loose rocks near the top and the old rotting tree stump that used to be used as the anchor, which came down scarily easy. This route really needs a bolted anchor! There is a cluster of trees farther back from where the old anchor tree had been, but nothing super great as an anchor (a big dead tree and two small alive ones was what we ended up using...didn't love it. The two alive ones had some old tat on it). Getting to that spot might be a bit trickier now that there is no tree to climb over as well. Interesting climb, but topping out in the thick trees and trying to find a way down was not the funnest. Sep 20, 2018

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