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Routes in Amazonia

Arbo-Reality S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drier Adhesive to the... S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Enema S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Firewalk on Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Remember Drooling S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iguanarama S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Laceration of the soul S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paste Human S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Q.D. Pie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Decay S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scrubbing Neon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ten-ish Ooze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tropicana S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
sodflesh S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 531 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Sep 11, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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24 Opinions

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Description

Very short route and shared start with Ten-ish Ooze. Move right for the last bolt and meet at the same anchor.

Location

Shared start with Ten-ish Ooze; move right at the last bolt

Protection

3 bolts

Photos

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gregman
 
gregman  
 
If you show up and the 5.9 is occupied, resist the temptation to warm up on this climb. Unless you know the beta well, you'll get pumped trying to figure out how to traverse far right to follow the flake to the chains. There's so many other high quality routes here that this one just isn't worth the time unless there's absolutely nothing else open.

Climbers were struggling on this one all day while we were there, with many trying to take the 10c (left route after second bolt) and transfer over, with little luck. I only safely sent it by knowing the beta, which still barely makes the route enjoyable. Jul 10, 2014
Johan
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Johan   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
The third bolt, the one that protects the crux moves, had a spinning loose nut on it today, May 31, 2014. My partner hand-tightened it when she rappelled. It would be good to bring up a tool to tighten it with.

Also, consensus here on MP seems to be that the crux move on this route is harder than on Ten-ish Ooze, and I agree. Probably both 10b. Jun 1, 2014