Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Joel McKillop
Page Views: 641 total · 6/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 11, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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For all of you who have wondered if Shaggy was always hungry because he smoked illicet substances, my guess is that you also wondered if the Brady kids ever "played doctor".

To that idea I only have one reply, "YOU PEOPLE NEED HELP!"

Or a hobby, one of the two.

For those of you whose hobbies include getting sandbagged, try this climb out for size.

This fifth route, as you move from left to right, is listed in the guidebook as a 5.9. And it just might be a 5.9 for the stud horses who bolt these climbs, but for me, after about three rides and a few hangs I managed to figure out a sequence which gets me to the anchors. After a few rounds of this form of self-abuse, myself, and everyone I have brought here believes that this route clocks in at least 5.10c.

Go ahead and play doctor. Give us your diagnosis.

A tricky start with a technical sequence to a two finger pocket makes this climb not a 5.9 right off the deck. The next series of moves are fun, stout and the climbing is quite a bit more sustained than the first two Bradyisms.

Somewhere around the middle of the climb you start working your way up a series of left and right flake holds that abruptly come to an end at about the third to last bolt

Here's the next crux! Good luck figuring it out!

The rest of the climb is a long, drawn out series of crimps and jugs between widely spaced bolts. If you don't make the next bolt or bail off before the anchors expect to take a long whipper.

Don't let this description deter you! Get on this thing! It is spectacular!


Fifth route from the left.

Plan accordingly, the belay station starts to slope here.


Bring ten quickdraws. Open shut anchors.