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Routes in Horseshead

Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: M. Carnes, Kyle Manuel, Matt Coffman, Mike Caputo
Page Views: 1,939 total · 23/month
Shared By: 1rsties4life on Sep 11, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the wavy slot with one bolt at its top, clip the bolt, then fire overhead and left into the wide crack which tapers to hands and flaring fingers for 40' to the anchor just beneath the large roof.

Location

Locate the large roof in the middle of the buttress 100' off the ground with the 3 cracks running out it.

Protection

Standard rack with extra finger and thin hand size.

Photos

Nat T.
Fort Collins, CO
 
Nat T.   Fort Collins, CO
 
One of the best routes I've done this year so far - even this one route is worth the approach. Great gear and if you brought a #4, there's a nice horizontal placement for it at the start. Like the description says, bring doubles in fingers and small hands. Also, don't forget to pose at the top while doing the Jesus stance. Jun 24, 2013

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