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Routes in Box Canyon

Can I cum on your box? S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fuck your box S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hot Box T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outside the Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jason Crapo (summer 2010)
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jason Crapo on Sep 10, 2011
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb the right facing corner to an anchor at 30 meters.

Location

The left most route on wall #3

Protection

Mixed

Photos

- No Photos -
Mattttt
 
Mattttt  
 
This route is about 33 metres long. (the topo graphic is incorrect)

This route was was dirty and bit run out, but fun.

A stick clip of the first bolt is wise, as there arrn't any good hands to clip from, and you'll be standing on a dirty slab with a long tumble down the slope if you slip. An extra bolt for the belay would be a nice addition to this route. May 14, 2013
Chris Keefe  
 
Hi Jason,
I wanted to thank you for helping establish climbs in Box Canyon, and ask for approval to add a bolt at the bottom of Hot Box.

This climb is your baby, so this is your call, but I think a well placed low bolt would benefit both the climbing community and the climb itself.

I spent an afternoon in Box after climbing Yak Check this weekend, and had a mixed experience. Outside the Box was beautiful - one of the best single-pitch climbs I've run in 10+ years on rock. Hot Box, however, was dirty enough to be a new alpine route.

My gut tells me that the high first bolt, cruxy slab, and semi-rough landing is scaring people off from an otherwise fun climb.

A fall on the first section would put both the leader and the belayer at risk — the best pro we could find for the belay was a steel micro-nut, wedged behind a thin flake. I'm all for run-out slab in it's right place, but even alpine routes try to protect high-risk and crux moves.

The route would benefit greatly from additional traffic. Only traffic will clean this scruffy beauty well enough, and we'd love your go-ahead to place a single low bolt to protect climbers and make the climb more enticing.

Sorry to post this, rather than messaging. There was an error with the message function.

Look forward to hearing from you,
Chris Keefe Jul 15, 2013
Chris Keefe  
 
Seconding Mortly again - This route is too tall to rap with a single 60m. Left a biner and backup nut above a ledge for others to use in escaping. Jul 15, 2013
michael crapo
mission b.c.
 
michael crapo   mission b.c.
 
Hey Chris, we havent done any more work up there in years. I will ask Jason how he feels about a low bolt. Im sure he would be fine with that. And yes, a 70m rope would probably work better. We had limited rope, and battery power on the weekend we put those routes up. May 18, 2014
Jason Crapo
  5.10b/c
Jason Crapo  
  5.10b/c
Hi Chris sorry about the delayed response, I haven't been on this site for awhile. I don't remember the specific mind set I was in when that route was bolted but I am interested in making it safe for people. Put in a lower first bolt, or I will do it next time I'm out there. Thanks for the feedback. Jun 7, 2014

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