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Bikini

5.10a, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 20 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte > d. Video Bluff

Description

The crux is just past the second bolt, a balancey left-hand friction move to a good ledge. There are balance moves and power moves, a well rounded route.

Location

This route follows the bolt line up the buttress to the left of Flakey Old Man, with which it shares a start (and first bolt).

Protection

4 QD's and a 3-bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bikini. Up the prow
[Hide Photo] Bikini. Up the prow
Next bolt up and to the left.
[Hide Photo] Next bolt up and to the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Ball

  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Bolt placements are awful. The "line" is more of an Arabic symbol. Not a recommended lead. May 23, 2017
JesseT
Portland, OR
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] About par for the course at Rocky Butte. Jun 5, 2017
Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] I agree about the bolt placements. Accessing the BIG ledge is the hardest part of this climb. If you can figure it out, the rest of the climb isn't so bad. May 29, 2019
Nathan Kelly
Fresno, CA
[Hide Comment] Bolts seemed fine to me. Risk of falling seemed minimal unless you are clumsy or wet.

5.9 - Jun 18, 2019
D Fletcher
Portland, OR
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Anchors updated to 1/2" inch stainless steel thanks to the ASCA. Rap rings added as well Dec 12, 2021
Emma Baldwin
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Didn't love it but could've been worse! Forced crux prior to clipping the fourth bolt if you're short. Yikes. Jun 2, 2022