PRINT: Rock Climb The Care Giver, Estes Park Valley

The Care Giver

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3 from 6 votes
FA: M. Carnes, Hoeffer, Matt Coffman
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Palisade Mountain > Mikey's Island

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

Climb into the smoker's den that is formed by the large flake leaning against the wall on the left side of the formation. Start in the obvious hand crack and follow it into the right-facing dihedral above the flake then traverse right at its top into the birthing canal just below the anchor.

Location

There is an enormous flat rock called "The Beach" that makes the belay for all of the climbs at the Island. Climb behind the enormous flake leaning against the wall off the Northern side of "The Beach."

Protection

Standard rack, bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hoeffer belaying inside the womb on the first ascent.

Looking up the route, inside the den.

M. Carnes on the first ascent.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

s.kimball

Give some care passing the blocks at the crux bulge, unique lead, 5.9. May 1, 2012

1rsties4life Carnes
CO

5.8

Agreed, that thing may come out at some point, but for now it should be fine. I pulled and pryed on it while on lead and again while lowering back down. It moved but wouldn't come out.... Very perplexing. Jul 9, 2012

Mic W
Drake, CO

Very nice hand and fist crack for the dedicated with an easy stem option if crack isn't your thing. Aug 27, 2018

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

A great climb as much for its uniqueness as for it's actual movement or other qualities. If you don't stem it might feel more like 5.9. Getting over the flake perched at the entrance to the chimney might be the crux of the route, actually. Nov 5, 2023