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Routes in The Dark Side

Hans Solo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: AJR
Page Views: 90 total · 1/month
Shared By: Allen Riling on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Rappel down the face of the dark side to the base of the cliff (2 raps with one 60m rope). The crack angles on the left side of the wall. A tricky crux down low leads to secure jamming or nice edging and laybacking. The route breaks up nicely into two pitches. The second pitch is a bit harder and a little bit contrived. From the anchor, climb straight up on easy terrain protected by gear for about 30 feet. Climb under an obvious roof, and clip a bolt at the lip of the roof. From there, pull the roof and climb the face on the best looking rock, straight up to the anchors that you first rapped from. Bolts and a few small cams protect this pitch easily. The second pitch has not seen a second ascent as far as I know, I think it is mid 5.11 if you stay on the best looking rock.

The Crack alone is worth coming for. It is one of the nicest cracks in the area.

Location

This is at The Dark Side...oh yeah.

Protection

A single rack of Cams up to a #3. 1 set of Aliens, 1 set of nuts, quickdraws. That is probably more gear than necessary, but it seems to do well on every Vallecit climb.

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