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Routes in Red Wall

Diamond Fork Arch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,215 total, 16/month
Shared By: Moto on Sep 6, 2011 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Gnarly flat wall climb that looks easy but is actually quite difficult. Also, it looks as someone has actually carved some holds into the sand stone due to difficulty.

Location

As you pull into the Red Ledges parking lot look just left of the Diamond Fork Arch at the big round slab wall; there you will find the climb.

Protection

Six glue-ins to an anchor.

Photos

Moto
Mapleton, utah
 
Moto   Mapleton, utah
 
Well John I have climbed the route more than once and I still have not been able to red point the climb but that should not be any reason not to post and share information about it. There are people out there that appreciate the route info vs someone bagging on a guy that just enjoys sharing climbing information. May 31, 2013
Tyler McBabe
SpanishFork, UT
  5.11a/b PG13
Tyler McBabe   SpanishFork, UT
  5.11a/b PG13
It is a hard climb yes, but it's slab. For a slab route, this one is pretty fun. It's sketchy in nearly every way you don't want it to be. Even with the man made holds, I still thoroughly enjoyed it. Apr 28, 2013
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
I'm not sure Moto the route poster has even attempted this route LOL. It is a tricky slab route which I have been unable to red-point (which is why I haven't posted it). It's probably in the 5.11 range (?). I think it is climbable but maybe not by me.

This site and area is popular for rappelling. There used to be some 1/2" studs on this route with no hangers that got in the way of rappellers. A few years ago I tried to install 1/2" hangers on the studs but the sandstone was so soft the studs just pulled out when tightening the nuts, so I retro-fitted with glue-ins.

As McKay mentioned, holds are slopers, gritty with sand making it slippery. It may appear at first that a hold or two was carved out but at close inspection I don't believe that is the case as they are covered in lichen. Aug 21, 2012
McKay
  5.11
McKay  
  5.11
This climb is hard. There are no holds, and your shoes can't grip the wind-blasted sandstone. I suggest the route around the right corner by the arch. (Unknown 2) May 15, 2012