Fire on the Mountain
Avg: 3.5 from 18 votes
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Double D. and Gabe R.|
|Page Views:||1,948 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roth on Sep 6, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is an absolute classic and should not be missed! There is a little bit of bad rock on the last pitch but not enough to detract from the fun. The route is continually interesting and well protected. The third pitch is the crux, but if you are short, it could be the first pitch.
Pitch 1: 13 bolts, 5.10c. The crux is one big reach, then it has sustained but easier climbing up the arete. Belay at the higher anchor for the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, 5.10a. A tricky move off the belay gets you started up the steep face. The crux comes at a small, round jug. Move right into a crack and follow an angling dike up right to the arete. Easier moves lead to a small ledge under a right-facing corner.
Pitch 3: 13 bolts, 5.10d. This is the money pitch! Start up the corner and crank up flakes on the steep left wall heading for the exposed arete. There are two bolts close together here (seems like the lower one was added so it would be easier to reach from a good clipping hold?). After reaching the arete, make a delicate traverse left to gain the upper slab. Keep going and going. Clear on more tricky overhang and head for the anchor.
We rapped the route easily with a 70m. I'm pretty sure you can make it with a 60m, but be careful. And go from one of the lower anchors for the bottom rap....