Type: Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Double D. and Gabe R.
Page Views: 3,383 total · 23/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

27 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This route is an absolute classic and should not be missed! There is a little bit of bad rock on the last pitch but not enough to detract from the fun. The route is continually interesting and well protected. The third pitch is the crux, but if you are short, it could be the first pitch.

Pitch 1: 13 bolts, 5.10c. The crux is one big reach, then it has sustained but easier climbing up the arete. Belay at the higher anchor for the 2nd pitch.

Pitch 2: 10 bolts, 5.10a. A tricky move off the belay gets you started up the steep face. The crux comes at a small, round jug. Move right into a crack and follow an angling dike up right to the arete. Easier moves lead to a small ledge under a right-facing corner.

Pitch 3: 13 bolts, 5.10d. This is the money pitch! Start up the corner and crank up flakes on the steep left wall heading for the exposed arete. There are two bolts close together here (seems like the lower one was added so it would be easier to reach from a good clipping hold?). After reaching the arete, make a delicate traverse left to gain the upper slab. Keep going and going. Clear on more tricky overhang and head for the anchor.

We rapped the route easily with a 70m. I'm pretty sure you can make it with a 60m, but be careful. And go from one of the lower anchors for the bottom rap....

Location Suggest change

The route starts a few feet up and left from where the trail hits the rock. This [was] the rightmost of 3 bolt lines, although the other 2 seem like worthy alternates to the first pitch.

Per Derek Lawrence: there is another route to the right going in.

Protection Suggest change

13 draws and something for the anchors....