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Fire on the Mountain
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 27
votes
Routes in The Monument
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Faded S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fire on the Mountain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lenin's Roundabout Statue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Robert E. Lee's Last Stand S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slab-o-Death Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Stonewall Jackson's Monumental Mantels S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Victorious Fatherland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Double D. and Gabe R. |
| Page Views: | 3,383 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roth on Sep 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This route is an absolute classic and should not be missed! There is a little bit of bad rock on the last pitch but not enough to detract from the fun. The route is continually interesting and well protected. The third pitch is the crux, but if you are short, it could be the first pitch.
Pitch 1: 13 bolts, 5.10c. The crux is one big reach, then it has sustained but easier climbing up the arete. Belay at the higher anchor for the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, 5.10a. A tricky move off the belay gets you started up the steep face. The crux comes at a small, round jug. Move right into a crack and follow an angling dike up right to the arete. Easier moves lead to a small ledge under a right-facing corner.
Pitch 3: 13 bolts, 5.10d. This is the money pitch! Start up the corner and crank up flakes on the steep left wall heading for the exposed arete. There are two bolts close together here (seems like the lower one was added so it would be easier to reach from a good clipping hold?). After reaching the arete, make a delicate traverse left to gain the upper slab. Keep going and going. Clear on more tricky overhang and head for the anchor.
We rapped the route easily with a 70m. I'm pretty sure you can make it with a 60m, but be careful. And go from one of the lower anchors for the bottom rap....
Pitch 1: 13 bolts, 5.10c. The crux is one big reach, then it has sustained but easier climbing up the arete. Belay at the higher anchor for the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, 5.10a. A tricky move off the belay gets you started up the steep face. The crux comes at a small, round jug. Move right into a crack and follow an angling dike up right to the arete. Easier moves lead to a small ledge under a right-facing corner.
Pitch 3: 13 bolts, 5.10d. This is the money pitch! Start up the corner and crank up flakes on the steep left wall heading for the exposed arete. There are two bolts close together here (seems like the lower one was added so it would be easier to reach from a good clipping hold?). After reaching the arete, make a delicate traverse left to gain the upper slab. Keep going and going. Clear on more tricky overhang and head for the anchor.
We rapped the route easily with a 70m. I'm pretty sure you can make it with a 60m, but be careful. And go from one of the lower anchors for the bottom rap....
Location
The route starts a few feet up and left from where the trail hits the rock. This [was] the rightmost of 3 bolt lines, although the other 2 seem like worthy alternates to the first pitch.
Per Derek Lawrence: there is another route to the right going in.
Per Derek Lawrence: there is another route to the right going in.
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