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Fire on the Mountain
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 15
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Routes in The Monument
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Fire on the Mountain S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slab-o-Death Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Double D. and Gabe R. |
| Page Views: | 2,080 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roth on Sep 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure.Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al…
For additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al…
For additional information and maps.
Description
This route is an absolute classic and should not be missed! There is a little bit of bad rock on the last pitch but not enough to detract from the fun. The route is continually interesting and well protected. The third pitch is the crux, but if you are short, it could be the first pitch.
Pitch 1: 13 bolts, 5.10c. The crux is one big reach, then it has sustained but easier climbing up the arete. Belay at the higher anchor for the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, 5.10a. A tricky move off the belay gets you started up the steep face. The crux comes at a small, round jug. Move right into a crack and follow an angling dike up right to the arete. Easier moves lead to a small ledge under a right-facing corner.
Pitch 3: 13 bolts, 5.10d. This is the money pitch! Start up the corner and crank up flakes on the steep left wall heading for the exposed arete. There are two bolts close together here (seems like the lower one was added so it would be easier to reach from a good clipping hold?). After reaching the arete, make a delicate traverse left to gain the upper slab. Keep going and going. Clear on more tricky overhang and head for the anchor.
We rapped the route easily with a 70m. I'm pretty sure you can make it with a 60m, but be careful. And go from one of the lower anchors for the bottom rap....
Pitch 1: 13 bolts, 5.10c. The crux is one big reach, then it has sustained but easier climbing up the arete. Belay at the higher anchor for the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: 10 bolts, 5.10a. A tricky move off the belay gets you started up the steep face. The crux comes at a small, round jug. Move right into a crack and follow an angling dike up right to the arete. Easier moves lead to a small ledge under a right-facing corner.
Pitch 3: 13 bolts, 5.10d. This is the money pitch! Start up the corner and crank up flakes on the steep left wall heading for the exposed arete. There are two bolts close together here (seems like the lower one was added so it would be easier to reach from a good clipping hold?). After reaching the arete, make a delicate traverse left to gain the upper slab. Keep going and going. Clear on more tricky overhang and head for the anchor.
We rapped the route easily with a 70m. I'm pretty sure you can make it with a 60m, but be careful. And go from one of the lower anchors for the bottom rap....
Bear Creek, CO
I'm not sure who climbed the FA, but the day Tod, DD, and I rapped down and placed first bolts on the last pitch, the climb was named. I called the fire into the authorities from atop the climb, but they may have already been informed. That was a momentous first day at the head for me, and I would not return to climb all three pitches from the bottom with Tod for two years (long after the FA was done). May 19, 2012
Bear Creek, CO
On the ascent, I recommend heading past the tree belays to belay at the headwall for the second pitch.
Third pitch is amazing. Don't miss it. Aug 6, 2012
Boulder
Thanks! Jul 8, 2013
Bailey
Front Range Co
Colorado
Denver, CO
I agree with the new guidebook that the last pitch is closer to 5.11a. However, it is really well-bolted. First and last belays are awesome, the second is a bit small and cramped.
We wanted to see if it were possible to hike over the formations to the Northeast and visit the fire tower. This is indeed possible. I added a topo pic to get you started. It is a little exposed in places but pretty easy to figure out. We had a great time figuring out the scramble and highly recommend checking it out! Jul 8, 2018