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Routes in Antarctica

Burning Grandma Bones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crematorium Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elvis Shades Rule S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fabulous Gordini, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Like Diocletian's Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Man-Bear-Pig S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moon Unit's Secret Shinto Ride S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Vikings and Ghetto Blasters S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkeys S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Aaron Huey 2009
Page Views: 962 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Starts with a few stiff bouldery moves before settling in on the arete. Here several good rests can be found. The route then moves left continuing on some nice vertical face climbing until the final roof finishing on some big holds.

Location

Look for the blunt arete ending at a right tending arch. No other routes found on either side.

Protection

11 quickdraws to a 2-BA
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a/b
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a/b
Starting in the corner, right of the arete proper (instead of sending the bouldering start), probably shaves off a grade; the roof moves are cinch. Bring a runner for that roof and you can easily/safely skip the first bolt before you jug over to the anchors to eliminate rope drag.

Fantastic line, any way you do it. Might as well gun for the soft 12 above while yer at it! Oct 3, 2011
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I appreciate the intent, but with Ten Sleep still seeing a lot of route development, and a new guidebook coming out just about every other year because of that, pinning a specific guidebook-given route number to any climb dooms that reference to obsolescence in fairly short order. For now, just sort the climb (if you can), and once the canyon is all climbed out (probably in about 15 years), then we can start claiming that a route number in the book is permanent. Sep 7, 2011