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Routes in Suspension Bridge Buttress

Baby Duck T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Earl of Perth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hell Gates T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspense T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspension Bridge Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Harvey, 1956
Page Views: 211 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Sep 5, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


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Description

A sustained single pitch, starting up a pocketed line about 5m to the right of the arete. Climb the pockets straight up to a ledge running diagonally left towards the arete and follow this to a wide groove/depression running directly up. Some interesting moves involving stemming in the depression (protected by a good thread) gain the crux of the route. From there, either make a few moves left to the tree anchor around the arete or continue upwards to an alternative anchor at a metal post a few metres higher.

If descending from the tree, it is worth flicking the abseil rope back to around the right of the arete to avoid landing in a patch of brambles!

Location

Start from on top of the road tunnel, about 5m to the right of the arete, up a pocketed line. Descent is via abseil off a fixed anchor on a tree 30m up, or a metal post a few metres higher. A 60m rope will get you down from the tree, but double ropes are recommended if you're descending from the higher anchor.

Protection

Nuts + larger gear up to 3" can also be placed, as well as tricams in the pockets.

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