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Tarantula
5.10a PG13,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.2 from 13
votes
FA: Bob Mitchell Ron Cousins 1972
N Carolina
> 2. Northern Mou…
> Linville Gorge
> N Carolina Wall
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne… Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The yearly seasonal raptor closure has been lifted as of late June 2020.
Description
Three distinct pitches are the flavor of this NC wall adventure climb.
first pitch is 50 foot left rising traverse under a roof. The climbing might feel easy for the 10a grade but the consequences of a fall are serious. Be sure you can pull the moves. Some loose rock be sure to test handholds.
second pitch is stellar leftfacing corner/crack. This is one of the best crack pitches in the gorge. Good, sustained climbing.
third pitch is wandering face with reasonable gear but enough to get you through. There could be more than one line here. I’ve gone left off the belay and right off the belay and both feel about the same.
once on the ledge many options exist for the exit to the gorge rim.
Location
continue past bumblebee and the corner. at first option scramble up to ledge. follow for 15 more minutes. scramble behind pillar and then the start looking up to see the leftfacing second pitch. start route off boulder or any other option you think you are man enough for...hehehe.
Protection
doubles up to 3 camalot. headlamp?
![Jason Bryant leading the p2 corner.]()
[Hide Photo] Jason Bryant leading the p2 corner.
![1st pitch. Starts on top of the boulder and traverses left under the roof.]()
[Hide Photo] 1st pitch. Starts on top of the boulder and traverses left under the roof.
![Looking up at the second pitch dihedral from the ground.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the second pitch dihedral from the ground.
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Broomfield, CO