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Routes in Oberes Diebesloch

Beavis and Butthead S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blutspur S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bonny & Clyde S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Franken Pranken S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lost Innocence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quergang (Traverse) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ronja S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Räuber Hotzenplotz S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sledgehammer S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verschneidung S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 183 total, 2/month
Shared By: Colin Simon on Sep 2, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Pockety line just right of Sledgehammer

Protection

bolts

Photos

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Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
One of the best climbs at the grade around. A local told me as I was coming down from the anchor that they say of the route you only get 3 dream climbs in life, and I just used up one of them. As good if not better than sledgehammer, and for me it felt easier, but most say otherwise. Very different as Sledgehammer has a crux higher up and then a harder finish, whereas this has a tougher boulder problem but a jug haul above. Do them both. The crux is down low moving left into an undercling. It then moves up and onto the right shelf/rail, up to the arete out right, then back left with a big move to a jug. Save some gas for the finish. Outstanding. Oct 26, 2015