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Routes in Sea Walls

Daydream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fast Grip T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gronk T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasper T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jumping Carrots T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Last Slip T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simian T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Barry Annette, Mike Thompson, 02/1961
Page Views: 178 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Sep 2, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Good, varied climbing for 4 pitches (5 in most guidebooks, but people tend to run 2 and 3 together). The P2 traverse has some fun, exposed moves but also much potential for getting lost.

P1: set off towards a ledge with several trees. Make some balancy moves to surpass a bulge with a fixed pin (crux) on the way. Belay off one of the trees.

P2: Above you are two right-leaning corners. Take the right-most of these, resisting the temptation to move left, until it steepens to vertical. At this point make some airy moves out right and traverse right to a stepped belay ledge in the gully, just below an obvious traverse back left. Good options for a gear anchor. Many people get lost and find themselves on much harder ground during this pitch; the locals call it 'getting Gronked'

P3: Leftwards, rising traverse, following the interface between two different rock textures. Belay off a tree after about 60 feet.

P4: Climb upwards in a steep gully, with the easiest ground to climbers left. Top out at the wall/fence at the top of the cliff. The fence is solid enough for an anchor.

Location

Start to the left of the graffiti, and just to the right of a patch of undergrowth by a tree. Look for the fixed pin about 40 feet up, and the sloping ledge with trees on beyond that.

Protection

Standard rack up to 2". Fixed pin on the crux of P1 and two on the P3 traverse.

Photos

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