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Routes in Choppin' Block

Choppin' Block S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extreme Fishing S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let The Good Times Roll S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Potential Trouble Source S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reportedly Reputedly Repeatedly S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Situational Buddhist S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thrash Cowboy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 47 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Strong on Sep 1, 2011
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Route is located on the face to the right of the crack. Start on the overhang and climb up the folds on the face.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Mark Pell
  5.10a/b
Mark Pell  
  5.10a/b
This is also by the late Kirk Holladay. You can begin by clipping the first bolt on "Choppin' Block" and doing a fun little rising traverse to the right if thorny bushes at ground level have you blocked for the normal direct start. Conveniently, this also keeps the rope out of the leader's potential fall line from bolt 2. From a flat-footed stance about 10' up which is easy to return to until you're ready to fire, work out a series of open-handed 'palmer' moves going up and slightly right over a mild bulge, looking for a secret two-finger letterbox hold at an extended reach. Eventually you will have to commit to reefing on this hold and making another long reach to further palmers (the 'good times rolls') with minimal footing in this section. The reward is increasingly square then blocky holds above and a timely and secure clip stance. Finish with a moderate well-protected mantel onto a larger blocky foothold. Stand up and you're at the anchor. Mar 22, 2012

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